Into the gorge

When we thought we'd seen everything, the trail led to a stone stairway outside Cascade Locks. There was a runner for your tire, and, well, we went slowly, carefully down. It was not what we expected, but it seems like there's always a way.

We did just about 35 miles today, climbing 750 feet in spurts and starts out of Troutdale, suburban Portland, and riding up through the little towns of Springdale and Corbett. We passed little businesses burrowed into the trees -- Tad's Chicken 'n Dumplings, and the famed nightspot Shirley's Tippy Canoe. We stopped to take in incredible views at the Portland Women's Forum State Scenic Viewpoint -- generously open to men as well -- and Vista House, a kind of shrine to the glories of good views. The land laid out before us was something to behold -- the water, the sky, the looming mountains. I have been heard to say, "Scenery, as a category, is overrated," but I'll give it, grudgingly, to the Columbia.

Leaving the Vista House, we negotiated a two-mile descent on two-lane blacktop full of hairpin turns and S-curves. We braked pretty hard all the way, and pulled over, when we could, when a driver behind us was angling to pass. I even had to stop to give my hands a break.

The rest of the day we descended into the gorge, following Historic Oregon 30, which is not the Big Highway, but a quaint, century-old two-lane road with stone guardrails and little traffic -- and then trails through fields and woods.

I've gotten a little better since my ignominious performance of Day 1, Friday. The hills are a little less daunting, and by riding at my own slow pace and taking breaks when need be, I can get it done.

But then, ask me again after the Lolo Pass.

Tomorrow: Hood River?

Bruce negotiates a rock. 

From the Women's Forum Viewpoint.

Outside the Vista House

The road down from the Vista House.